Hossegor. La Nord, 28th of December 2012
We did not surf much here in 2012. Most of the time crowded, with Stand Up Paddlers and other fireman with rescue boards, we preferred surfing southern, between us.
But this day was the day, a classic one at La Nord and not so crowded.
Some years ago, I would probably jump into my wetsuits and run over the line-up to log this classic day as fast as I could. But just to test my self confidence for later on, I decided to take flippers and swim out to contemplate and analyze this modern circus.
Here is what I thought :
- Again, I figured out why surfers really like this place. The combination of Waves, lifestyle and Landscape makes it a perfect place for those who know : where can I surf in a peaceful place? How can I get this perfect line up?
- Some years ago, there were probably harmful Jet-skis, and an other spirit in the line up. I guess that things change and surfers from Hawaï or Maverick still send some positives messages to surfers of all around the world with their commitment in paddling, swimming skills and waterman approach...
- About boards, while Mr Duvignac rode a 6'2 with drive, control but low yield, Mr Picon was on a 9'2, a classic gun. Two pro surfers, with two different approaches. Nothing to say about that, I appreciated how they were both commited. I guess that a 7'5 or a 8' could have been perfect for me, a compromise in speed paddling, drive and yield.
- On photography, a fish eye is not really adequate while waves are shifty. Need to ask Kodak to change their disposable camera.
2013 is ON.
Love is all around
